So as I've been rather lazy and slow updating this, I shall combine what I planned to be two parts into one, to insure that I can write it all! Plus things have been happening here in France too over the past week; but I'll get to that.
So where I left off, we had just arrived in Rabat. This actually led to rather an adventure and a possible scam; I had booked the AirBnb, an apartment, for the trip, and showed the address to the cab driver (all in French, bien sur). He confused us quite a lot, in saying something about it not being a proper address, and then the phone numbers we were given not being Moroccan, and we were getting more and more confused. Finally we got out of him that apparently the neighborhood it was in was very bad and not safe and that he would take us there but advised us against it. Naturally, we were pretty freaked, and then he said he could take us to a tres bon hotel near the medina in a safe neighborhood, and so we agreed as it would cost us each basically just another 60 euros for both nights and we were scared. Looking back, we may have been scammed; but its hard to be sure, as the neighborhood was pretty far out. .. Anyways, it worked out fine with the hotel and we got a nice dinner with Lindsay's friend Mimi that night.
The next day we got up, got breakfast in the hotel (still with fresh squeezed orange juice, those Moroccans love their juice), and went out to explore the medina. It was very different than the Fes medina, partly because it was newer and wider, so there were places where you did actually have to look out for cars. We picked up a new suitcase for me, since Ryanair broke my old one, and walked around, buying gifts and enjoying the sights. I did kind of miss the Fes donkeys, though. We wandered upon a beautiful sea view at one point, then headed over to the kasbah, or fort, to get some henna done.As soon as we got in a lady jumped at us to do our hands, and it was nice but not my favorite henna I have gotten--it was pretty watered down tourist stuff. But the kasbah was beautiful with a lovely courtyard garden and I quite enjoyed myself.
After that we met Mimi at the beach and enjoyed the sand and surf for an hour or so. There really weren't any women in bathing suits, so I didn't feel comfortable even going out in my one-piece, but I did go wading and the water was great! We got lunch, and then Lindsay and I went to this monument called Tour Hassan, which is the remains of an unfinished mosque next to the mausoleum of the last king of Morocco. It was very pictaresque, but I particularly admired the mounted guards in flashy uniforms. That evening we went to dinner on a boat, which was a fancy French place, much to Lindsay and my amusement. It is an interesting fact that in Morocco, alcohol is legal to non-Muslims over the age of 18, but technically illegal for Muslims (not sure how much that rule is actually followed).
The next day Lindsay and I again had a bit of an adventure, going over to the train station to get our tickets out of Rabat to Casablanca, where we were flying out the next day. We went up to a couple of nice looking girls our own age, and asked them how to get to the station, and one of them told us she was going that way too and would walk with us! She was a really lovely girl, and tried to speak mostly English with us even though I'm sure our French is better. She told us about how she wishes she had our freedom to travel where we wanted, as she has to always be with a brother or father. She's studying graphic design, but worried about getting a job; there aren't nearly enough jobs in Morocco, especially for the growing educated class. We met a lot of people like here in Morocco, who were open and friendly and always wanting to share and chat; we actually met one just a few hours after!
We had planned to go to these beautiful ruins called Chellah, so we went to find a taxi at the train station that afternoon. We had trouble with a guy trying to scam us; so a train station official started to lead us in the direction, then came across a guy he apparently knew and left us in his care. This guy turned out to be the most awesome hippie man ever.
Highlights:
"I was a non believer, than I was agnostic, now I am Muslim, but bit of an anarchist!"
"I met my wife in 1975 in a bus in Bourgogne. We were smoking a lot of cannabis."
"I write poetry and sometimes give it as gifts."
"I like those American musicians--Neil Young, Joni Mitchell. . ."
And then he quoted Pink Floyd.
We met some interesting people in Morocco, I suppose.
Chellah was absolutely beautiful, all ruiny but with lots of garden and plants and a sort of natural peaceful feeling, which was lovely after being in some crazy cities. Unfortunately, it was about midday and had gotten really rather hot, so both of us felt it was necessary to find some lunch. We wandered around for a bit and then took the train right to Casablanca!
Do not go to Casablanca. It is sketchy and a little scary and that's all I have to say about that. We flew out the next morning, and then I was in Florence (after a flight, a shuttle, and a bit of a walk to the hostel). I met up with Julia Lopez, a friend from high school who also happened to be traveling in Florence at the same time,and her friend Caroline, and we had a lovely dinner by the Duomo, where I had my first real Italian pasta, which was even better than I imagined. The next day, my traveling buddy Alex was coming in in the evening, so I took the day to explore. I went across the river to the Palazzo Pitti, an old palace that is now a museum, and saw their stunning costume collection and some of their artwork and porcelain. I saw the Santa Maria de Novella church that we were staying near, and got a Firenze Card for 50 euro, a wonderful little three day thing that lets you get in all these places for free.
Alex came that evening and we had a great time wandering around the city and found delicious pizza for dinner and gelato for dessert. I had a LOT of gelato in Florence. The next day, Saturday, found us up bright and early to explore the Palazzo Vecchio, an old Medici palace, the PonteVecchio, which was cool but had mostly jewelry stores atop, and the Galleria Uffizi, which I enjoyed but at that point I was exhausted and had rather sore feet and was feeling a bit ill due to a cold, so unfortunately I didn't enjoy as much as I might have, even though I loved the Botticelli rooms. We also did lots of window shopping, which was really rather impressive for a city I don't normally associate with being a fashion capital in Italy. Lots of leather goods like gloves and shoes, but also hats and beautiful dresses and jackets and top fashion designers like Gucci and such. It was really rather stunning.
Sunday we went to see the David at the Galleria Accademia which was really kind of astounding. Definitely worth seeing in person, no matter how many pictures you have seen. Photographs aren't allowed in there, which is an annoying difference between Morocco and Italy! Then, whilst wandering over to the Museo Ebraica, we stumbled upon a lovely little old botanical garden, which claims to be the oldest in the world. I particularly admired the roses and the lovely greenery. We definitely were traveling at the right time of year! The Museo Ebraica was really stunning, a beautiful old Sephardi style synagogue, though I was saddened that you have to go through pretty much airport level security to get in--you can't even take in a purse!
That afternoon Alex and I went to the Casa Dante, which was kind of a disappointment as it was more about the complicated political history of Florence than about the Divine Poet. We also went over to this fortress near our hotel that happened to our surprise to be hosting an artisans fair! We particularly enjoyed the free samples of cheese in the food section. Alex then was off, so I dined with Julia and Caroline again and prepared to go home.
The next day, after a train, a bus, a plane, another bus, and two trams, I was back in France! And I'll tell you about things here soon, but this was such a long post I don't know if anyone even made it to the end. . .
Love,
Miriam
So where I left off, we had just arrived in Rabat. This actually led to rather an adventure and a possible scam; I had booked the AirBnb, an apartment, for the trip, and showed the address to the cab driver (all in French, bien sur). He confused us quite a lot, in saying something about it not being a proper address, and then the phone numbers we were given not being Moroccan, and we were getting more and more confused. Finally we got out of him that apparently the neighborhood it was in was very bad and not safe and that he would take us there but advised us against it. Naturally, we were pretty freaked, and then he said he could take us to a tres bon hotel near the medina in a safe neighborhood, and so we agreed as it would cost us each basically just another 60 euros for both nights and we were scared. Looking back, we may have been scammed; but its hard to be sure, as the neighborhood was pretty far out. .. Anyways, it worked out fine with the hotel and we got a nice dinner with Lindsay's friend Mimi that night.
The next day we got up, got breakfast in the hotel (still with fresh squeezed orange juice, those Moroccans love their juice), and went out to explore the medina. It was very different than the Fes medina, partly because it was newer and wider, so there were places where you did actually have to look out for cars. We picked up a new suitcase for me, since Ryanair broke my old one, and walked around, buying gifts and enjoying the sights. I did kind of miss the Fes donkeys, though. We wandered upon a beautiful sea view at one point, then headed over to the kasbah, or fort, to get some henna done.As soon as we got in a lady jumped at us to do our hands, and it was nice but not my favorite henna I have gotten--it was pretty watered down tourist stuff. But the kasbah was beautiful with a lovely courtyard garden and I quite enjoyed myself.
After that we met Mimi at the beach and enjoyed the sand and surf for an hour or so. There really weren't any women in bathing suits, so I didn't feel comfortable even going out in my one-piece, but I did go wading and the water was great! We got lunch, and then Lindsay and I went to this monument called Tour Hassan, which is the remains of an unfinished mosque next to the mausoleum of the last king of Morocco. It was very pictaresque, but I particularly admired the mounted guards in flashy uniforms. That evening we went to dinner on a boat, which was a fancy French place, much to Lindsay and my amusement. It is an interesting fact that in Morocco, alcohol is legal to non-Muslims over the age of 18, but technically illegal for Muslims (not sure how much that rule is actually followed).
The next day Lindsay and I again had a bit of an adventure, going over to the train station to get our tickets out of Rabat to Casablanca, where we were flying out the next day. We went up to a couple of nice looking girls our own age, and asked them how to get to the station, and one of them told us she was going that way too and would walk with us! She was a really lovely girl, and tried to speak mostly English with us even though I'm sure our French is better. She told us about how she wishes she had our freedom to travel where we wanted, as she has to always be with a brother or father. She's studying graphic design, but worried about getting a job; there aren't nearly enough jobs in Morocco, especially for the growing educated class. We met a lot of people like here in Morocco, who were open and friendly and always wanting to share and chat; we actually met one just a few hours after!
We had planned to go to these beautiful ruins called Chellah, so we went to find a taxi at the train station that afternoon. We had trouble with a guy trying to scam us; so a train station official started to lead us in the direction, then came across a guy he apparently knew and left us in his care. This guy turned out to be the most awesome hippie man ever.
Highlights:
"I was a non believer, than I was agnostic, now I am Muslim, but bit of an anarchist!"
"I met my wife in 1975 in a bus in Bourgogne. We were smoking a lot of cannabis."
"I write poetry and sometimes give it as gifts."
"I like those American musicians--Neil Young, Joni Mitchell. . ."
And then he quoted Pink Floyd.
We met some interesting people in Morocco, I suppose.
Chellah was absolutely beautiful, all ruiny but with lots of garden and plants and a sort of natural peaceful feeling, which was lovely after being in some crazy cities. Unfortunately, it was about midday and had gotten really rather hot, so both of us felt it was necessary to find some lunch. We wandered around for a bit and then took the train right to Casablanca!
Do not go to Casablanca. It is sketchy and a little scary and that's all I have to say about that. We flew out the next morning, and then I was in Florence (after a flight, a shuttle, and a bit of a walk to the hostel). I met up with Julia Lopez, a friend from high school who also happened to be traveling in Florence at the same time,and her friend Caroline, and we had a lovely dinner by the Duomo, where I had my first real Italian pasta, which was even better than I imagined. The next day, my traveling buddy Alex was coming in in the evening, so I took the day to explore. I went across the river to the Palazzo Pitti, an old palace that is now a museum, and saw their stunning costume collection and some of their artwork and porcelain. I saw the Santa Maria de Novella church that we were staying near, and got a Firenze Card for 50 euro, a wonderful little three day thing that lets you get in all these places for free.
Alex came that evening and we had a great time wandering around the city and found delicious pizza for dinner and gelato for dessert. I had a LOT of gelato in Florence. The next day, Saturday, found us up bright and early to explore the Palazzo Vecchio, an old Medici palace, the PonteVecchio, which was cool but had mostly jewelry stores atop, and the Galleria Uffizi, which I enjoyed but at that point I was exhausted and had rather sore feet and was feeling a bit ill due to a cold, so unfortunately I didn't enjoy as much as I might have, even though I loved the Botticelli rooms. We also did lots of window shopping, which was really rather impressive for a city I don't normally associate with being a fashion capital in Italy. Lots of leather goods like gloves and shoes, but also hats and beautiful dresses and jackets and top fashion designers like Gucci and such. It was really rather stunning.
Sunday we went to see the David at the Galleria Accademia which was really kind of astounding. Definitely worth seeing in person, no matter how many pictures you have seen. Photographs aren't allowed in there, which is an annoying difference between Morocco and Italy! Then, whilst wandering over to the Museo Ebraica, we stumbled upon a lovely little old botanical garden, which claims to be the oldest in the world. I particularly admired the roses and the lovely greenery. We definitely were traveling at the right time of year! The Museo Ebraica was really stunning, a beautiful old Sephardi style synagogue, though I was saddened that you have to go through pretty much airport level security to get in--you can't even take in a purse!
That afternoon Alex and I went to the Casa Dante, which was kind of a disappointment as it was more about the complicated political history of Florence than about the Divine Poet. We also went over to this fortress near our hotel that happened to our surprise to be hosting an artisans fair! We particularly enjoyed the free samples of cheese in the food section. Alex then was off, so I dined with Julia and Caroline again and prepared to go home.
The next day, after a train, a bus, a plane, another bus, and two trams, I was back in France! And I'll tell you about things here soon, but this was such a long post I don't know if anyone even made it to the end. . .
Love,
Miriam
THIS WAS THE BEST BLOG POST I HAVE EVER READ
ReplyDeleteI made it to the end (but why was it the best blog post ever?)
ReplyDelete